
Don't expect an American deluge just yet, say travel experts. Above, Havana's ever-dramatic seawall, the Malecón
Photo: Calvys Ardisson, Condé Nast Traveler
Cuba—home of salsa dancing, cigars, ’57 Chevys, chilly relations with the United States, and a Hemingway
novel—may soon see more visitors from the States. Murmurs of legislation bent on softening relations between the two countries have grown louder in 2010, and have some looking toward a future where all travel restrictions go the way of the Cold War. But what exactly does the current policy look like, and how would changing it affect Cuba?
A result of the 1960 embargo, the austerity of those restrictions has ebbed and flowed depending on who’s
occupying the White House. More recently, “dating back to 2000,” writes Mark Sullivan, a Latin American-affairs specialist for the Congressional Research
Service, “there have been numerous legislative efforts to ease restrictions on travel to Cuba in various ways.”
Bear in mind that it’s not illegal to visit Cuba; it’s just illegal to spend money there. “The embargo
[prohibits] financial transactions
which effectively result[s] in a travel ban,” Sullivan explains. This year, a bill to lift the ban—H.R. 4645, the Travel Restriction Reform and Export Enhancement Act, which also aims to deregulate agricultural trade with Cuba—could have made more Americans eligible to visit Cuba. But the bill stalled when House Foreign Affairs Committee Chairman Howard Berman (D-CA) argued a “robust and uninterrupted debate” was necessary—and unlikely before the November
elections.
General tourist licenses are not an option. Yet, while only Congress can eliminate the ban, the president
can dictate how it’s enforced. Travel licenses are issued by the Treasury Department, and only to journalists, professionals in a noncommercial capacity, and family members no more than three generations removed. In 2009, President Obama curbed limits on the frequency and duration of family visits and cash remittances. Although there have been reports that the White House is considering removing obstacles for more educational and entertainment travel (like planned trips by the American Ballet Theatre and New York City Ballet this November), nothing has yet come about.
So, as speculation abounds and political entities maneuver, I decided to ask two people who have traversed
the country recently what they thought increased American traffic would mean for Cuba.
Frequent Condé Nast Traveler contributor Patrick Symmes has visited and written about Cuba extensively, and possesses an insight that most Americans do not. Does he believe more travel should be permitted? To an extent. “We should diminish the travel embargo, bit by bit. Start by formally ending all enforcement against individual travelers,” Symmes says. “We shouldn't legalize the use of credit cards, or let U.S. tourism companies operate, until the Cuban state gives up its monopoly, and lets ordinary people open their own tourism businesses.”
If that were the case, would Cubans welcome us? Symmes is succinct, “They love Americans.” He goes on, “There is substantial European tourism there, so Americans are often surprised—they expect isolation. The atmosphere, architecture, timelessness, decay, spirit, grace, struggle, and beaches are all just as fantastic as legend has it.” Symmes echoed that sentiment in his latest article for Outside magazine, suggesting that “a flood of rowdy, cash-waving Americans is just what the place needs.”
Neil Shea, a contributing writer for National Geographic magazine, who “started out with an empty jeep, picking up everybody” while driving across Cuba in 2008, takes a less amenable stance. “Aside from the resorts,” says Shea, “Cuba's infrastructure isn't prepared to handle loads of tourists, and what many American tourists are accustomed to in terms of amenities, Internet connections, reliable showers and electricity.” He maintains that such a surge could be “followed by a downturn once Americans realize that visiting Cuba isn't like visiting the Bahamas.”
If a new market of travelers was suddenly available for Cuba to capitalize on, Shea fears, the need for business could lead to the “same negative effects that happen anywhere tourism meets a third world economy,” where many are “willing to ride the wave without considering the consequences.” But his optimism should not be understated, “Ultimately, it's up to the Cubans to decide what's important to them, and they're very smart, very adaptable people.”
It’s been five decades since Americans regularly crossed the Straits of Florida. And while obviously nobody knows precisely how relaxing travel restrictions will affect Cuba, it’s clear the reality of doing so is closer to being within reach than it has been in years. Perhaps, then, the question is no longer if, but how soon.